2014-10 Gabarrou gully, Chardonnet 3824m
Stephane Bourrel and Yann Delevaux
We planned together to go climb the north face of Grandes Jorasses by a famous route called
. The weather is super good until Saturday and on Sunday the rain comes back. The window is too short to climb such a committed face as the Grandes Jorasses. In case anything goes wrong (weather, us) we have no margin and in a place like that we need to have at least a little flexibility.
Steph is super motivated and since we did not climb ice gully for a long time, he still wants to come and climb something on Friday & Saturday. We quickly decide to go to the Chardonnet and a technical ice gully in super good condition: the Gabarrou gully.
At this time of the year lifts are closed so are the huts. We need to hike from the bottom of the valley and carry food, stove and warm clothes. The weather is just perfect. At the winter hut, we are quite a lot of people with the same plan, about 16 people!! But we will be the only one climbing this route.
At 4am we start walking on the glacier.
At 10.30 we are at the summit! Just perfect. Good conditions, quite technical, just long enough and what a view at the top!!! The 1st time we climbed together this mountain was 8 years ago, in 1 push from Chamonix because the hut was fully booked!!!
1pm we are back at the hut. Steph and I are super happy. We don’t need to climb hard & difficult stuff to be happy in the mountains. Days like that are just what make us happy. Life is simple.
Some lunch and we go down to the valley. Clouds are already coming and I feel they the weather is already changing.
It was really a perfect day!!
In red our ascent line, in green our descent line
On our way to the hut, Le Tour glacier
View of Chardonnet from winter hut
Fantastic light on the Chardonnet
Le tour glacier from the hut
Sun set on the Aiguilles Rouges Aiguilles Rouges
Chardonnet. Descend follows the ridge on the right
Morning start 4am
Steph after the 1st pitch
Steph in the crux pitch = most technical pitch
Last 100m meter before the final ridge
Incredible view from the summit
From left to right; Mont Dolent, Courtes, Droites, Aiguille Verte
Conditions are just incredible
North face of Les Droites and Les Courtes on the left
North face go aiguilles verte
North face (on the left) & North West face of Aiguille Argentiere
Steph reaching the summit crest
At the top
My new ice axe at the summit