You were numerous to participate in this session of summit my summit contest. It’s time now to congratulate the winners!

Climbing date:Aug. 19th –Sep.,2013

About Mt Kangze’ Gyai
Mt. Kangze’gyai(5917m) ,located at north of Lake o’hara, Tianjun, Qinghai,China. It’s the highest peak of the Qilian mountains inTibetan Plateau. Northern latitude 38°30′, east longitude 97°43′. The surface of ground is covered by snow and ice. The snow line is above 4400m with glacier 89 square kilometer.


Climbing history

Because of depopulated zone, it is very difficult to approach Kangze’gyai. Only 4 climbing records could be found:

1.Sept.1958, Chinese team 13members, summited.

2.Aug.1999, Joint team of 7 Chinese and 8 Japanese, summited

3.May. 2008, Kailas climbing team attempted the southwest peak, but couldn’t reach the top of Kangze’gyai.

4.Oct. 2009, Chinese team, Yong Li, Zonghua Huang and Wei Yuan summited with a new climbing route and named it as ‘The dark wall’

Qilian mountain range is very important in the mountaineering career in China. Because of limited access in terms of transportation, only few mountains in Qilian are known. BIGPACK will sponsor a team of 6 climbers to climb Mt. Kangze’gyai in this summer 2013.

The Team team

5 members: “Fish in the sky”、 “5 percent”、“Cuihua‘s brother” 、“Michael wolf”、“Ji Xiang”


We are mountain enthusiast in love with climbing. We went to climb some mountains around 5000m in the past. We enjoyed the expeditions no matter managed to reach the top or not. Aug. 2009, we climbed the Su zhu lian” peak (5547m) in Qilian, which was the first Chinese climbing team to the summit. Jun.2010, we climbed another peak 5024m of mt Qilian Our team consists of members with 6000m or 7000m climbing experience. Based on past experiences and prevailing conditions, we try to design a route for this coming attempt of Mt. Kangze’gya

The Route
The route in blue, by northwest, more or less similar to 1958 and 1999’s. The route in yellow, by northeast, is believed to be a brand new one. Mt. Kangze’gyai is quite difficult to approach. However, the unbelievable beautiful sight due to depopulation of Lake o’hara has captured us there. The best time to approach Lake o’hara is spring and autumn. It is to avoid melting of glacier which may trap the jeeps. Some technical skills of ice climbing and roping up to climb the Mt. Kangze’gyai is needed. The most difficult part is ascending from C1 (4950M) to summit (5817m) ensured physical energy, and safety roping up skills because of plenty of crevasses. The mountain ridge is clear in the picture but not clear in satellite map. We worry about the cliffy cornice and we will modify our climbing route according to conditions. We plan to set comfortable BC. If the condition is good, we plan to climb another peak (longitude 97.750382, latitude 38.489211, height 5735m) after Mt. Kangze’gyai. winner3_6 Itinerary
Blue route Day 1: Yinchuan city – Lanzhou city , by train Day 2: Lanzhou city – Delingha, by train Delingha – south bank of Lake o’hara – east bank of Lake o’hara – BC, by go-anywhere vehicle. Day3 : BC 4500m —C1 4950m Day4 : C1 4950m —TOP 5817m – C1 4950m Day5: C1 4950m – BC4500m (rest and to think about if climbing another peak) Day6: BC—Delingha Associated Product: assoicated_3