BIGPACK Members:

  • Antoine Cayrol
  • David Lacoste
  • Paul Dudas
  • Emmanuel Chance
  • Laurent Bibollet
  • Yann Delevaux
  • Karine Payot

Marins:

  • Brice Monégier du Sorbier
  • Corinne Perron
  • John ???
  • Nicolas Donadey

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Port Lockroy area, 7 sisters range (Fief mountains)

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1st traverse of the 7 peaks of the 7 sisters (Fief mountains) by :

  • Antoine Cayrol
  • David Lacoste
  • Paul Dudas
  • Emmanuel Chance
  • Laurent Bibollet
  • Yann Delevaux

On November 21st. From the ocean, ascent of the 1st « sister » also called peak Jansen 1000m (1st summit from the south west) round trip by the south side. Approximately 500m of snow & ice slopes 50°/55°. 1 vertical step (about 3m) right below the summit with vertical snow to reach the 1st summit at 5pm. We followed a very fine snowy ridge to climb the 2nd summit of the Jansen peak. Descent by the south side too (10 abseil with albalakov and dead man).

Bivouac at the bergschrund of Jansen peak with tent
On November 22nd, we walked around the 1st sister by the south east side. Then we climbed approximately 300m of steep snow & ice to reach again the crest between the sister 1 & 2. We followed the crest up to an overhanging snow mushroom at the base of sister n°2. 1 abseil (30m) on the east side, then 2 pitches (ice 80° & snow 60°) led us to the top of the « sister n°2 ».
From the top of sister n°2, we followed the ridge. Very sharp one. 3 abseils on dead man in the middle of huge snow mushroom allowed us to step on the pass between sister 2 & 3. From here to the summit of sister 3, it is a snow ridge with some steep snowy sections (60-70°).
Descente of Sister 3 : always follow the ridge. 3 abseil, very very steep (dead man, albalakov & pitons). From the pass between sister 3&4. We reached the summit of sister 4 : snow ridge with a section at 65°, we went around a serac by the east side).
Short descent (35°) to a large pass at the base of sister 5. Snow slopes around 50° to reach the summit of sister 5.
Descent par snow slopes, a little bite steeper 40° in the worst fog ever !!! Very difficult to anticipate the right way. From there, always following the ridge, we climbed sister 6 (50°, 2 section at 70°).
From top of sister 6, descent by snow slopes 30/40° and 2 abseil of 60m. From this point, we are on a wide and flat glacier. The top of sister 7 is 1h away from here.

Summit of Sister 7 on nov 23rd at 7 am.
Descent by a wide couloir on the Lockroy side to get back to our sailboat (8 abseil, albalakov & pitons). 4 hours later, we finally reached our boat next to Port Lockroy base. At 3pm.

Very long , committed and exposed climb. More than 11 km long ! TD+. Need 2 to 3 day. « wings » mandatory on the ice axes.

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November 26th , 1st ski & snowboard descent of a couloirbelow peak Jansen by Antoine Cayrol (ski), Karine Payot (ski) and Laurent Bibollet (snowboard). 300m 50-55°

Cap Renard area: Route « PODRONARD » to celebrate our sailboat « Podorange ».
1st ascent of the south east tower of Cap Renard (700 m high) on december 1st by :

  • Antoine Cayrol
  • David Lacoste
  • Paul Dudas
  • Emmanuel Chance
  • Laurent Bibollet
  • Yann Delevaux

500m, TD/TD+
13h round trip

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Exposed start from the ocean under a serac. Then snow slope 40° to access the glacier at the base of the tower on its south west side.

200m of easy glacier.
Pass the bergshrund and climb 60° slope slopes for approximately 100m. We arrive on a flat “snowy” dome at the real base of the tower.
2nd bergshrund and 3 pitches of snow slopes 55°, rock and ice (200m). Good belays on pitons & friends.
Again a snow slope for 100m going to the left.
The crux pitch is right below the summit: 15m of mixed rock & ice (M5) and a thin ice gully (70°). We keep going diagonal right to go around the final snow mushroom. Very bad snow quality (80m, 40°, snow anker).
The summit is almost flat with no cornice!

Descent: 10 abseils (pitons and 2 dead man) straight down more or less following the ascent route.

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