Jul 27th, Summit in snowstorm, 6168m
Mt Chola 6168m, longitude 99.1 latitude 31.8, is located in western Sichuan China in the Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture near the eastern Tibet border, at north Shaluli mountains of south east Tibetan plateau. In Tibetan, ‘Chola’ means ‘Eagle couldn’t fly over me’. The main peak especially C1-C2 with mature glacier is well-known of its difficulty in China. Surrounded by more than 20 peaks of 5000m, peak of Chola found outstanding in the mountains.
Mt Chola has various climate and landscape. The two huge glaciers stretch and reach up to 4600m with plenty of ice belts, cliffs and crevasses especially on the way from C1 to the summit making it difficult and technical in climbing. Snow is thick which is suitable for mountain climbers. Basic skills with experience in high altitude are required.
I always excited with climbing. For me, it is not summit, nor in any sense conquers, but rather the trust and caring between team counts. Roping-up in a climbing is exactly something like roping the hearts and life together too.
Started at 5 in the morning
We arrived at Kangding with elevation rising. I felt very terrible today because I caught cold which was getting worse.
After a whole day’s driving leaving from Kangding in the morning, passed by Tagong and Daofu, we arrived at Ganzi at 8pm.
I stayed in a small clinic in Mani Gange, Deyang County till 4pm. Then we started trekking to the base camp.
With amazing lakes and mountains, the landscape of Xinluhai is almost as beautiful as in Switzerland.
On the way to BC, Xinluhai. ( lolo, our climbing team leader)
BC, Meeting，arranging the training next day.(on the right: lolo in GASHERBRUM JKT )
We basically spent the day to practice slip-brake and knot ascending& descending at BC, less than 4000m.
Mt Chola looks very majestic. You can see the wonderful summit and cliff, very exciting.
Climbing training at BC
Climbing training at BC
Leaving BC at 9am, we arrived at C1(4850m) in the afternoon 1:30pm.
I cough violently. The weather was terrible bad with rainstorm and strong wind during the night. It seemed the tent would be gone by the wind. Our camp was set up at the edge of glacier, which clouds were just above.
From BC to C1, making road signs.
(on the left: Enbo Zelang, one of our mountain guides and also chief, in green GRADIENT PANT)
On the way from BC to C1
C1, at the edge of glacier, blessing by piling up Marnyi Stones.
Last night our camp was attacked by the storm and rain. I felt a little headache because of altitude effects. We walked on the glacier from C1 to C2. The glacier of Mt Chola is perfect but too many crevasses as a labyrinth. We had to rope in, too exhausted crossing every dangerous crevasse with heavy backpacks. It happened several times that our climbers dropped into the crevasses while we were in the labyrinth looking for the way climbing up. I was too tired when we arrived at C2(5350m).
After 1.5hours walking from C2, ascending 200m, a huge ice belt cut off our way. 2 guides roped in to go check. They didn’t come back until 2pm, and their decision was to climb a very cliffy vertical ice belt. As many crevasses were covered by snow, those complicated situations in Mt Chola made us exhausted during climbing step by step.
C3, 5750m, setting up camp
The strong wind began at 1:30am. Our tents seemed to be tore by it. The weather was too bad, snow, hail, lighting, thunder…
We planned to summit leaving C3 at 3am, but we didn’t start climbing until 6:30am when the snow just stopped. Because of the dense fog, the visibility was only around 5meters.
After 7hours climbing and struggling with the snowstorm, I was the first one summit in the afternoon 1:30pm. I stayed 1 hour at the top 6168m to wait for other team members. Lighting and thunders in the clouds passed by me, super scared.
Jul 27th, Summit in snowstorm, 6168m, (on the right: Shino)
We climbed down from C3 at 9am. It was snowing, and began to rain after we already was below C1. We got a fond wet and walked 12hours with heavy backpacks. It was 9pm arriving in Xinluhai, 12pm arriving in Ganzi, I was completely exhausted.