January 10th:
After many changes, many discussions we finally end up with a (I think) super good plan: we will hike to the bivy this morning, slowly, no rush. Camp there at around 4000/4200m and start early the next morning planning to climb Mt Hunter up & down in 1 day. Liu, Simon and I will climb a more a less straight line up to an obvious icefall in the middle of the face before heading left to meet the East ridge and follow this ridge hopefully to the top. The descent will be a key & tricky point I can already feel it when I look at the mountain. Most likely we will rappel down the same route. I also figured out another option to go down by the north ridge in case we feel it is too dangerous to go down the same way. We’ll decide when it will be time, after reaching the summit. Another party is coming with us: Marcos a Brazilian guy and his partner. They will climb a line on our left and meet our line at the base of the ice fall.




Our packs are huge!!! And so heavy! It is always a nightmare to decide what to take and not to take because you have to find the perfect balance between being not too heavy and taking enough gear/garments/equipment to not be cold or too much uncomfortable. Experience is very helpful here… Good thing I’m the oldest guy in the group!!!!! I still can not believe it! I think it is the first time it happens!!! Ahahahah better laughing about that but I ‘ll show those young super climbers what I still can do….:))))