At around 4100m, I feel that we won’t find a better bivy spot above. Mt Hunter is right above me, impressive, massive! I wish we will find good ice or at least frozen snow. While the rest of the group is coming slowly I decide to break the trail all the way to the real base of the face. I leave my bag pack and start towards the center of the face. For me it is important for 2 reasons:
I will make a track for tomorrow and in the early morning tomorrow it will be easier to walk. So we will save some energy for the climb
In the early morning it will be dark so much more difficult to see where to go exactly.
And it is still the beginning of the afternoon, I have nothing else to do so … My friends from France would say that I love “breaking “the trail. They are right, but I know why!!!!
I was right. No good spot above. So after checking again the face and our line, I turn around and join the rest of the group to set our camp.
Find a flat little spot, pack the snow with our feet, yes because we did not bring any shovel, and fix the tent, the mattress…. And start making some water by melting snow. It seamed that we had a long afternoon but we were quite busy! I like this moments because there are full of discussions between climbers. We talk about mountains, future projects, things we have done, about our respective life… Nothing more than what people can do in a bar in the city but we do it at 4000m in the cold temperature of a late afternoon in the shade of the (still unclimbed) Mt Hunter!!! The annoying thing in winter is that daylight is short and we decide to dive in our sleeping bags at 8pm. It is always a long night for me before a long climb. I never sleep super good but at least I rest…