matthieu1

BIOGRAPHY

Born in a big gold Chamonix family, my grands parents opened the first guest house in the valley : the chalet « Premier de Cordée ». The famous writer, mountain guide and explorater ROGER FRISON ROCHE (a very famous french mountain writer& mountain guide) was the godparent of this chalet. As you can see, i grew up in a « mountain atmosphere » from the begining.

Despite the ascent of Mont Blanc at 14 years old with one of my cousin, some bouldering with my father and my uncle and some ski with some cousins, i was not really into mountaineering. At this moment « my sport » is mountain biking. I praticed mountain biking at a national level unil 1996.

In 1995, i need to serve for the national military service. I choose to spend 1 year in the gendarmerie in a special section called PGHM which is in charge of the mountain rescue in a little city next to Chamonix, Saint Gervais Mont-Blanc. My duty is to assist and help the profesionnal mountain rescuers. At this time, my co workers and soon friends took me into the mountains and it is when i « officially » discovered rock climbing, ski touring, ice climbing… all activities that we pratice in the mountains. Since this moment, i have only 1 idea in mind : becoming a mountain guide !

In 1998, i became a ski patrol in the Saint gervais ski ressort. I’m in charge of rescuing people hurt on the ski pist and also in charge of the safety of all the pists. This job is great because i can associate both of my hobbies : ski and rescue ! I’m also in the « mountain » community and i spend all my free time training to pass the mountain guide certification !

In 2000, i discover one of the most exciting part of alpinism : going to expedition. We are 3 friends heading to climb Latok 2. Bad weather forced us to go down but the experience was one of the most fantastic of my life !

2 years later, 2002 i become a mountain guide which still pasionnate me. The 2 things i love the most in my job are :

the contact with the people i take to the mountains. It is very close to managment : i love motivating my clients, securing & reassuring them…

the strong feeling, all the emotions i share with my clients when we reach together a summit.

What i love the most is discovering new places, news mountains. I try to go as often as possible abroad with clients as a mountain gude or with some friends to climb new peaks such as Greenland, Nepal, Mongolia…

Since 2008 Ski patrol instructor at the French National Ski and Alpinism School

Since 2002 Mountain guide, memeber of the Compagnie des Guides de

2005 – 2011 Ski patrol director for St gervais ski resort

1998 – 2004 Ski patrol for St gervais ski resort

1996 – 1998 PGHM St Gervais Mountain rescuer

Expeditions with clients :

  • 2013

Ski touring in Mongolia, 18days
Ski touring in Greenland, 20 days
Ski touring in Albania,15days

  • 2011

Ski touring in Turkey

Expedition in Ecuador Chimborazo 6317m, Cotopaxi 5897m

  • 2010

Expedition in Népal : Mera Peak 6476m and Baruntse 7162m

  • 2009

Kenya : kilimandjaro 5895m

  • 2008

Héliski in Russia

Ski touring in Népal in the Damodar Himal area. Ascent of saribung 6328m

Mountaineering and climbing with clients:

Tournier intégral au droites

Aiguille Verte

Dent du Crocodile

Arête du Tronchey au Grandes Jorasses

traversée des Aiguilles du Diable

Cresta Signal à la pointe Gnifetti

Nord Nord est des Courtes à Ski

Traversée des Dru

Grépon mer de Glace

Arête Kufner au Mont Maudit

Aiguille de la république

Arête de Peuterey depuis Monzino, bivouac Craveri, sortie au Mont Blanc

Traversée Aiguille de Bionnassay Mont Blanc

Blanche de Peuterey depuis Monzino par les vires Schneider

Couloir lagarde au Droites en hiver 4000m (TD)

Icefalls :

Patrie de droite avec clients (5+)

La dame du Lac (6+)

Mountainering and Climbing :

La Ginat aux droites

Hyper couloir du Brouillard au Mont Blanc

Arête Mittellegi à l’Eiger

Face nord de l’Aiguille du Triolet

Expedition au Pakistan, Latok 2

Roc Climbing :

Bavella en corse :

Jeff, punta di Corbu (ED,7b)

Esperanza, punta Rossa (ED,7a)

Aguirre, punta di A Murra (ED-,6c+)

plusieurs voie au Verdon

Voyage escalade à Kalymnos, en Thailande, en Sardaigne, en Crête et dans les Météores en Grèce.