I was dreaming about this face for so long!!! The most famous mountain and the most incredible north face of the central alps: north face of the Piz Badile by the no less famous Cassin route (because of the name of the famous italian climber Ricardo Cassin)

Originaly we wanted with Jean-Pierre & Pascal to climb the Walker spur on the Grandes Jorasses. Storms were coming in at the end of july so we had to change. So we head to Chiavenna where a good italian pizza makes us forget the long 5 hours of driving. 1 hr of hiking later and we can stop et the marvelous Sciora mountain hut. But we arrived late (it is 9pm) and there is no more room for us because the women thought we won’t come…. No pb, she manage to find a 3 person spot for the 4 of us… it ’s gonna be warm….

Short night. Wake up at 3am. There is lots of people. Too many, we have to be quick to be in the first ones. Many of them take the direction of the north spigolo another easier route. Only 4 people follows us to the Cassin route.

Here we are, at the bottom of the huge & impressive not face of Piz Badile. The rock looks so perfect, so « flat » with no holds…. The 1st pitch called « rebuffat crack » warms you up!!! The route is just incredible. I can not imagine Ricardo Cassin, 80 years ago climbing the face with their old and heavy equipment…. Congratulations guys, it is incredible!!

All the pitches during the 800m of the route are absolutely great. The rock is perfect. The central « chimney » is something special: either it will make you feel you want o go home either you will love it if you have a good experience in this kind of rock climbing. Just amazing!! We will reach the summit at 2pm and we decided to sleep on the summit thanks to a little ivy called « Alfredo Redaelli bivy ». A nice little shelter. Then the next day we will go down by the north Spigolo. Another long day…. to get back to our car.

 

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