Working experience:

  • Since 2012 BIGPACK sports marketing director
  • From March 2010 to September 2012: Director of « La Chamoniarde, Société de Prévention et de Secours en Montagne »
  • 2008 -2009 “la Fête des guides” director
  • Since 2006 professional mountain guide (UIAGM)
  • 2005 Engineer for Petzl, Crolles
  • Since 2001 member of Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix
  • 2000-2012 Technical advisor for Millet

 

I started climbing at age 14 with some friends. Since then, my passion for the mountains has been driving my life. Listing all or some of my best climbs is very difficult because for me the most important thing is what you share in the mountains. Sometimes you will feel some incredible stuff just skinning up a glacier or doing some easy rock climbing with kids. The happiness, the strength of what we feel in the mountains is not up to the difficulty! That’s why you’ll find here a short list of what are my best souvenirs/ my best climbs for me according to what I felt at the moment.

 

Expeditions:

  • 2013 Mongolia, Altai, Khuiten, Malchin, Tsanbagarov
  • 2011 Greece, Kalymnos
  • 2010 Iran, Bisutun rock climbing international festival
  • 2009 Alaska, Denali, with 5 clients
  • Jordan again (rescue operation because a friend fell…)
  • 2008 Jordan
  • 2006 Everest cleaning expedition with coreans; cleaned up south col at 8000m
  • Cho Oyu 8208m with clients, no oxygen & no Sherpa
  • 2005 Annapurna base camp cleaning expedition
  • 2004 USA, Utah, Colorado, Yosemite
  • 2003 USA
  • 2002 Scotland, Ben Devis & Cairngorns in winter
  • USA: Yosemite, Joshua tree…
  • 2001 Aconcagua, Chili
  • Italy, dolomites
  • 2000 Slovakia winter trip in the tatras mountains
  • Alaska, Denali with my father and 3 friends
  • Pakistan; First attempt of Duli chhish (6800m)
  • 1999 Kirgystan. Part of the Russian national mountaineering championship
  • USA: Yosemite, Red Rock

 

Rock climbing:

I love sport climbing. I do it all the time, as soon as I can. When I manage to climb for myself a little, I usually do 8a red pointed and 7B+ / 7c on sight (French grade). I don’t like to “work” a route again and again; I’m more a one shoot climber!

Multi pitches:

I like it do but when I manage to climb at least a little before to be able to push myself. I did some aid climbing too in the Verdon or in Yosemite but definitely I prefer free climbing!

In the Verdon Gorge’s

  • “A tout coeur”(6c)
  • “Rideau Gwendal” (7b)
  • “Trou sec”(6c)
  • “Pourquoi j’ai mangé mon père”(A3)
  • “Nagasaki”(A3)
  • « Le voyage de la mandarine » A4 in 4 days in November. We were climbing by night with headlamps to be able to move on because days in December & now are super short !!!
  • « Au voleur méfiez – vous » A4 in 3 days in December We were absolutely lost with no people around during 4 days !!!

Maladière: a cliff next to Chamonix 300m high, very steep! I’ve climb a lot of routes on this big rock cliff and opened a new one:

  • “La guerre de l’an 3 n’aura pas lieu” A3 & 7b. We opened it in 3 days. The 2nd day, going back home late a big rock rolled on my finger and i had 5 stitches. I was working as a cashier in a supermarket… and i couldn’t bend my longer finger anymore to give the change !!! Fun !!
  • Xenon 7b
  • Indiana jaune 6c
  • Vade Retros satanas7a
  • Vox populi7b
  • L’arche perdue 7a
  • Noli me tangere7a+
  • Le temple du soleil7c

Les Vuardes: another big cliff right on the opposite side of the valley, in front of la Maladiere. We can not access this 350/400m high rock cliff from the base. You access from the top abseiling down and then clilmbing up again. Let me tell you that as soon as you start you have no choice: you have to climb the route or sleep and wait for rescue if you can not reach the top again!!

  • Plenitude6c
  • Vertige6c
  • Quand on tue le cochon…. 7b+
  • L’air du temps 7a

Dolomites Italy:

I went to the Dolomites 3 times. The first time in winter. We ice climbed and opened a new mixed route in the Tofana di Roses. I still remember how cold it was!!!! Then I came back in summer with a friend and we climbed some of the most famous mountains of the Dolomites:

  • Marmolada by the Vinatzer – Messner route 800m; 6c
  • Cima grande di Lavaredo by the Comici route 400m, 6b
  • Cima piccola by the Cassin route
  • Campanile Basso
  • Crozzon di Brenta: we wanted to climb the “guide route” and we were so wrong that we basically opened a new route, completely lost in the face. We were so ashamed that we couldn’t find the right way that we never told the hut keeper back at the hut…

In Chamonix, in the mountains I’ve also climbed lots of rocky peaks with glacier approach such as:

Grand Capucin 3831m:

  • Voyage selon Gulliver7a, 400m
  • L’echo des alpage 7a+, 400m
  • Bonatti route 7a, 400m

Trident du tacul, 3639m

  • Eclipse7a+, 300m

Pinacle du Moine,3460m

  • Salathé400m, 7c

Les Drus, 3754m

  • Pilier Bonatti,600m, 7a (I was 16 and we climbed it up & down to Chamonix in 25h!!!)

 

Ice Climbing:

I do not ice climb a lot even though I really like it. The problem is that in the winter skiing keeps you quite busy! But I’ve climb all the most famous ice fall around Chamonix. One day I would like to go to Canada because I think it is the place to ice climb! Soon…

  • Argentière: “Shiva Lingam” (6)
  • Argentière: “Desesperado” (5+)
  • Argentiere : « Nuit Blanche »(5+)
  • Gramuzat: “Gramuzat direct” (6+)
  • Val d’Aoste / Cogne : Repentence Super (6)
  • Morillion : Dame du Lac(6)

Alpinism:

Since I’m 14 years old, I’m spending almost all my free time in the mountains so making a list of whatI’ve done will be a long exercise… here is a summary of what is maybe my best memories.

 

Grandes Jorasses, 4208m

  • Walker Spur (6b, 1200m),in a day

Les droites,4000m

  • The Ginat,1000m, 5,in a day (I was 17)
  • Lagarde Couloir, 1200m, 5

Aiguille Verte,4210m

  • Directe à la Croux, 1000m, 5+,in a day
  • Grands Montets ridge,in a day (I was 16)

Mont-Blanc, 4810m

  • Winter ascent by the Grand Pilier d’angle (the Bouchard route); 1600m, 5

Les drus, 3754m

  • The north face, Pierre Alain route in winter in 1 day (17 years old)

I started guiding in 2000 and since then I guide more than I climb mountains for myself. But I always wanted to keep my passion at a very high level always looking for new mountains, new routes; That’s why I also do many challenging climbs with clients. Of course the commitment is different and it is a huge challenge to take people to their highest level!!
The list below is not exhaustive and represents the most representative climbs I’ve done as a guide.

Grandes Jorasses, 4208m

  • Grandes Jorasses traverse, 3 days, 4 M3
  • The shraw, 1000m, 4+ in a day in winter

Les droites, 4000m

  • The Ginat, 1000m, 5, in a day

Lagarde Couloir, 1200m, 5 (twice)

Aiguille Verte, 4210m

  • Couturier couloir, 1000m
  • Grands Montets ridge in 2 days (twice)
  • Vivagel gully, 1000m, 5+ in a day in winter
  • Jardin ridge, 4+, 1200m
  • Sans nom ridge, 6b, 1200m

Mont-Blanc, 4810m

  • Innominatta ridge, 1000m, 4+ (3 times)
  • Piler rouge du Brouillard, 6a, 1000m
  • Intergrale de Peuterey, 6b, 2500m, 3 days

Les drus, 3754m

  • The north couloir in winter, 800m, M10, 4+
  • Drus Traverse, 1000m 4 (twice)

Aiguilles de Chamonix

  • Traverse, 2 days, 6b 7km long…

Aiguille noire de Peuterey (Twice)

  • South ridge (2 days) 6a, 1200m

Les courtes, 3866m

  • The Swiss route (twice) 800m, 4
  • NNE couloir, 800m

Grand Capucin, 3830m

  • Bonatti route, in 1day round trip from Chamonix

La Meije, 3983m,3983m

  • The Traverse (twice) 1 day, very long, 5, 900m
  • North face via the “Z” 800m, ice up to grade 4/5

Pilier de Barre Noire

  • 6b, 800m

Ailefroide, 3954m

  • Coste Rouge ridge, 2 days, 1200m, 5

Bietschhorn, 3934m, Switzerland

  • Est Spur, 1000m, 4

Zinalrothorn, 4221m

  • Rotgrat, descent by the north ridge; 1600m, 4

Dent Blanche, 4357m, Switzerland

  • Ferpecle ridge, 4, 1000m

Dent d’Herens, 4171m Switzerland

  • Tiefmatten ridge, 1500m, 3

Matterhorn, 4478m Switzerland

  • Lion ridge, descent by Hornli ridge , 1500m, 3 (3 times)

Eiger, 3970m Switzerland

  • The north face, Heckmair route in 1 day!!! 1700m, 5

Schreckhorn, 4078m

  • SW ridge, 1400m, 5

But the most important for me is all the mountains I haven’t climb yet!! All the valley that I want to discover!! And let me tell you that I still have a lot to do…

Extreme skiing /Snowboarding

Tour Ronde, 3792m
We snowboarded the north face with my friend Karine. She was 17, I was 16… It is 300m high and about 50°…

Cosmiques Couloir:a long couloir from the cosmiques hut 3654m , 2500m when you can ski to Chamonix, about 40/45°

Glacier rond, another famous couloir next to the Cosmiques couloir…

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