2014 Muztag Ata, my first 7000+ Mountain

I have many dreams, and I work hard for them!

In the past 10 years, I have travelled many countries in the world and also many famous places in China. I love travel which brings me many unforgettable memories and brilliant passion! I started to climb in 2012, and my first step was Glacier Mountain Mengke. Last year, I climbed Mt Banji, Mt Chola, Mt Xuebaoding and Mt Haba, all summitted. Climbing Muztag Ata 7000+ is my mountain dream. And I am lucky enough to have it realized this July2014.

Muztag Ata, 7546m, a giant massif to the west Kunlun Mountains and east Pamirs located in Xinjiang, seems to be the best choice of 1st 7000+ for enthusiasts. I have no idea if I could cope with high altitude but I kept regular physical training before the climb, just for it!!

Jul 2nd
After 9 hours driving, arrived to Taxkorgan, a small town in Pamirs. Some people say Muztag Ata is not as superb as heard, but for me, it is just magnificent!

Jul 3rd
Supposed 1hours for 11km trekking in XiAn at the end took me 5hours to BC!! I got altitude sickness at this 4400m and threw up a lot!! Felt bad, and couldn’t take dinner. I have to say thanks to my teammate in taking care of me during my difficult time….I never expect it could be such freezing! So freezing that my stomach ached! 4400m here was as cold as C2 in Mt Chola. Who said Muztag Ata easily to climb?

Jul 4th
We joined the cleaning of Muztag Ata, meanwhile did medical checks for local people. They were very happy when they received some commodities from us. I was deeply impressed when they thank me with a pack of local yogurt. The weather changed fast in the mountain. We had to ascent more than 1000m every day and would climb BC-C1the next day with repeated logistics by ourselves. I started to worry if I could handle the situation….

Jul 5th
BC-C1-BC, ascending 1100m in 7hours, descending 2hours.
C1- 5400m, the wind was very strong. I felt so cold that I put on all fleece, down and jacket. The ice berg of Muztag Ata is very gorgeous with brilliant blue light. To be honest, I even didn’t want to go back BC. It’s very exhausted to repeat climbing this route, for 3 times! Basically I was in a good condition except my stomach. No rice, no meat! I started bleeding in the nose and felt serious headache last night because of the altitude. I had to handle it calmly.

* Muztag Ata 1

* Muztag Ata 2

* Muztag Ata 3

*Ice climbing training

* BC – C1