I wanted to climb this peak for a long time. I tried 5 years ago but turned around because of the snow conditions.
This summer, i told Michel that i wanted to go back there and he was enthusiastic about it: a high summit, a very beautiful summit situated above Zermatt and one of the most esthetic peak of the Alps (up to me of course).
We decided to climb the north ridge and go down by the east ridge. A very long trip, following what will be for me probably the most beautiful ridge of the Alps.
2 h by car from Chamonix, we leave the car in Sierre to take a bus to Zinal. The quite swiss mountain village is in the last french speaking valley. The next valley , Zermatt, is german speaking. Anyway, the approach is long. Almost 4 hours to reach the brand new « Tracuit » hut at 3500m. Weather is soso, cloudy and a bit chilly. But the forecast for the next day is perfect so no worries. The hut is full, because it is the start to a famous and easy 4000m peak called « Bishorn ».
Diner and then sleep. We wake up at 2.30 for a long day. Weather is clear, conditions are perfect. 2 other parties are with us. First we hiked the glacier to the top of Bishorn, a warm up before the real ridge. From there we just follow the ridge with is a mixed of easy rock climbing (grade 4 max) and snow. The sun rise and we can finally feel a bit warmer. The sonw ridge is just incredibly beautiful. We can feel the altitude and the summit welcomes us with a bit of wind. We eat a little and start the descent. We have 3200m to walk down…. so long!!!!
We catch a train in Tash to go back to Sierre. What a day. Michel and i are super happy. It is a long route but one of the most impressive ridge iweve climbed!!
view of bishorn
the north ridge with the sun rising
Michel climbing the « Grand gendarme » part: the most difficult part
Some other guy (actually a girl) climbing above us
Michel checking the next part, is it still far???
Michel almost at the top, on the snowy part
a party almost at the top …